Sunday 22 05, Opposite Ben Nevis.
A travelling day. We woke at 7am and drove to a wee marina at Ardrishaig to a tap and filled up with water; so much simpler than having to use jugs and bottles.
After breakfast we continue to find the spot we visited before under Appin Bridge. With a full tank of water we both get showers, and give H a bit of a scrub up. The sun is shining which is a surprise and a worry for us. We planned carefully for a very cold, wet and wind Papay and Springbank festival. We did not pack for an early Scottish Summer. Lisa only has one t-shirt. Never mind we are sure it' ll be back to normal soon.
Over lunch we decide on an overnight spot to head for within 15 minutes of the Fort William garage where Hamish has to be presented at 8am tomorrow in his best bib and tucker for his MOT.
The route takes us up a single track road which is definitely more than 15mins away but tucked away at the start of a forest track we have the most stunning views of the Ben Nevis range and we are even lucky enough for the clouds to lift from the summit.
Back in the Highlands we are on the lookout for midges. So Lisa, who can suffer an allergic reaction to bites, is largely stuck inside. We do risk a post tea stroll as the flying things look a little big for midges. We will know by morning, if Lisa's skin looks like a volcanoes has erupted, they were real midges.
Angus texts so he safely made it to the airport. We risk a beer, we aren't shaking yet.
We start to plan a walk but we need to see how H. gets on tomorrow, we could be here a while, fingers crossed.
We mentioned in the blog that Lisa has started to suffer claustrophobic attacks. This manifests in her sitting upright in the night, banging on Hamish's roof shouting 'get me out of here, I can't breathe' etc. When Alastair manages to reassure her she's in Hamish she snuggles down again. Lisa can only recall coming round during one of these night terrors which was incredibly scary. Well tonight as we are on a slight slope we sleep with our head on the other side of H. This means Lisa snuggles under the cupboard to her right, not left. Lisa thinks she has a great night's sleep. She had two attacks. Poor Alastair who spent a long time shouting over the screaming and banging: "You are in Hamish Lisa. Its Ok!"
Monday 23 05
We both sleep till 7am, Lisa because she has had her best nights sleep in ages. Alastair through exhaustion. They were not real midges. Hoorah!
We leave behind our beautiful view and drive to the bottom of the glen for a quick breakfast. We were at the garage with Hamish in his best bib and tucker for his MOT by 8am. We removed our bikes off, waved bye bye and cycled into Fort William for the day.
After a calming coffee we saw a Cotswold 0utdoors shop and decided to address the problem with Alastair's boots. Insisting on packing light Alastair only bought one pair of walking boots. Whilst they are excellent, two little nails appear to be coming through the footpad and exacerbate the plantar fasciitis one one foot.
The staff were excellent and very helpful though we had no receipt and there was no record we had bought it from them. They offered A. a new pair of boots until we realised the problem would be the same, with Alastair's feet, not the boots. They bought out bits of foam, rubber foot soles anything to address the problem. After what felt like several hours we left with the original boots and the store people on their knees. A big up to Cotswold Outdoor stay, though.
Next stop was wifi which tourist information provided and we spent two hours updating our blog and other jobs while Lisa kept one eye on her Walsall peregrine chicks who appear to be doing well.
A cheeky half to keep us going and we were shoe shopping! After another two hours we were walking along a path, (Lisa was trying to maintain the will to live after visiting every shoe shop in Fort William because Alastair is very particular) when she bounced her head off a "pedestrian's only' sign that was immaculately placed for maximum danger. We sat on a bench to enjoy the sunshine everyone else was cherising. Alastair decided not to buy a spare pair of shoes. Two minutes later we were buying a pair.
We had a call to say Hamish needed to go back in tomorrow but we could have him back tonight so we went to collect him. Hamish had been a very good boy, he had needed a new lightbulb and a fuel pipe needed sorting. By the time we arrived they had sorted it. H had an M0T and he didn't need to go back.
By now we were knackered: quick food shop at Morrisons drove down Glen Nevis where we shared a beer and spent the night by the Caledonian Canal (Neptune's Staircase.)
Tuesday 24, Neptune's Staircase, Fort William.
Despite a goodnight sleep we woke up and realised we were knackered after the last few days so we decided to do my little today.
We did have to get water and according to our app the nearest tap was over an hour away. So we took the easy option and paid the nearest campsite £8.
Then we returned to the car park, did some clothes washing and a few other jobs and that was about it. Pre and post tea walks along the Canal to enjoy the sunshine, it is 20° today.
Early night and a great nights sleep.
Wednesday 25 05, Neptune's Staircase again.
Today is a walking day, more blue sky and light winds, this is not highland weather!
Lisa looked in the wardrobe and found the spare pair of shoes Alastair had remembered to bring. He forgot that he had brought them! Hmmm.
We decided to stay away from the crowds by staying away from Glen Nevis and heading up Glen Loy. Setting off along a Scottish Forestry trail we got bored and took a left up a boggy trail. It lead to a wee valley, Coire an Lightuinn, and we hung a left up a very steep and boggy hill towards Stob a Ghrianain mountain.
We saw some deer on the horizon, hurrah. As we climbed Aonach Mor and Ben Nevis hove into view, still with snow on the tops. As we climbed higher the northerly wind became more apparent and we donned our 'matching' waterproofs but still our fingers grew colder. So after an oatcakes lunch we decided to head down.
With his feet in the burn Alastair enjoyed the cool rush of water on his sore feet, Lisa lay on a bridge listening to the stream gurgle below her.
Our last night at the Caledonian Canal enjoying Johan's beer.
Thursday 26 Loch Leven
About an hour after going to sleep last night Lisa sat bolt upright asking Alastair who he was and what he was doing there. Alastair tried to reassure Lisa saying 'it's me', Lisa recalls none of this, poor chap.
Today was travelling and jobs day. We went into Fort William, shopped and actually worked out in tourist info how to add photos to our blog.
We had lunch at the Nevis visitors centre and had a walk round the 'contemplation area' which is where the ashes of people who were scattered on the mountain have been removed to as the ashes were becoming so common they were changing The Ben's geology.
Then we were on the hunt for water. The nearest stand pipe is on the way to Kinlochleven so we set off in pursuit.
We found the standpipe at the top of one of our favourite places that we haven't visited for a while, a graveyard. So several trips through the graves with our water container and we were sorted.
We drive to Kinlochleven for a look around, the ice factor sadly seems to be much less busy than it used to be maybe we are just earlier in the season?
There are Iots of walkers coming off the West Highland way which is our route for tomorrow.
Hamish is snuggled up by the side of Loch Leven with a view of the ridge of Aonach Eagach, 3 mile ridge walk / scramble that I am incredibly proud that we completed but would never, ever want to relive.
These sedate days see Alastair sat outside H. in his deckchair basking in the sun, yes we are still getting beautiful weather which we are sweltering in having no appropriate warm weather gear but we are not complaining!
Friday 27 05, Loch Leven to Clachaig.
We played a blinder last night. Just behind Hamish in our layby was a slip road that needed 24 hour access. Three campervans tried to squeeze between H. and the slip road but had to move on. We spend all day waving at other motor home drivers then try to avoid them at all cost in the evening. Then the boy racers started. To be fair there were only three little cars with big exhausts and by 9.3O we were asleep.
Today was walking day. We drove back into Kinlochleven and headed onto the West Highland Way. We climbed out of the valley and walked for an hour and a half but once we could see the path weaving between the mountains infront of us had had enough of the crowds. What is the wee protocol on the walk? No discrete trees, a complete view of the path and hoards of people. We are used to being on walks where we see noone and can practically wee in the middle of the path. Sorry wee digression!?
For years we came up here and threw ourselves up Munroe (mountains over 3,000ft) we haven't done that for a while so we don't have confidence in our ability to do that yet. 
Instead we headed back against the crowds and took the opposite track. We walked up to Eilde Mor loch when we saw a sign saying' footpath closed'. Well we thought about it and basically ignored it, (right to roam responsibly) no we said we would see how far we could get. Then we came upon the road they were building.
We walked for 11 miles and overall climbed over 5,000 feet so we don't feel so bad.
Safely back at H we headed to our beloved Glencoe. Hamish is now snuggled between Aonaoh Eagach and Sgurr Coire Nan Lochan, all of which we have climbed in our younger days.
After showers we walked to the Clachaig, our favourite pub in the world, for beers and treated ourselves to food. We have waited a long time for tonight.
After a meal and two pints we were stuffed! Our BIG night out. We walked back, passed H. and down the valley to where, 7 years ago, we invited friends and family to join us and bring their favourite poem or piece of literature with them to read with us by a waterfall, with a dram of Hazelburn and a piper in our 'stirring the porridge' celebrations. A magical day!
Then Jacky text to say Papay islanders were on the One show with Tom Kitchen cooking on the shortest flight. A reminder that our long term favourite place has competition for our hearts.
Before bed it came on to rain. Magical.
Saturday 28, Clachaig to Ayr.
We woke and headed to Glencoe Village to get our breakfast and get ready for the day then we nipped up the road to Invercoe campsite to see Mr. Ian Brown.
About 21 years ago, just before she went to Japan, Jo, Lisa's friend, wanted to go to Scotland. Someone told us that if we only went to one place we should go to a place called Glencoe.
Jo and Lisa camped at lnvercoe with the most spectacular views over Loch Leven, a view later used in Harry Potter.
Lisa was so amazed that, the year after, she took Alastair and we went every year for the next 16 years. Over the years we invited up: Sally, Gemma and Jamie to climb a mountain; Brian who looked after us on the Aonaoh Egach ridge and many friends and family to our aforementioned 'stirring the porridge' celebration. So Ian Brown who owns the campsite has been a significant person in our life.
Having reacquainted ourselves we said our goodbyes again and set off , heading South (SAD FACES).
South of the Highlands, driving through Rannoch Moor we both slipped into a downer. We are not leaving scotland yet or going back to work but leaving Glencoe is always tough.
According to our app the next standpipe is at the Green Welly. We fill up the tank but decide not to have our traditional visit to their Whisky shop as its so busy. We head south and the queues of cars pouring into the Highlands are scary. Its the start of half term which is why we are heading South.
Magically the Ditchburns are visiting the family cottage in Dumfries and Galloway this weekend. To avoid the crowds we are heading there.
Ayr is a reasonable distance on route to the address Jay has given us so after a quick lunch stop by the racecourse we find a bed for H. by the seaside. We go to explore Ayr in our over warm clothes as it's about 19°. It's like Blackpool by the sea with hoardes of kids, possibly the only warm day of the year on a Bank Holiday.
We nip into tourist info and make an effort to see the highlights. A mortsafe on the walls of a kirk to stop the body snatches nicking corpses is the highlight. We decide to head for the Ayr Brewery tap. As we arrive a shattered pint glass is being swept up, it's a proper Scottish bar with people drinking a 'half and a half'.
We ask what Ayr beers they have on. None. Oh well. We order Loch Fyne ales. No hardship at all.
As it was such a lovely day the front door was open and we hear a band outside. We head for the door to enjoy the band going past. The landlady beats us to it and shuts the door keeping us inside, the pub quietens for a few seconds. lt's an Orange Order parade!! There are muttering's that the police had not given them permission. Everyone keeps quiet and the parade moves on.
Back at Hamish we enjoy T.M.S. and the sunshine, unlike the Sri Lankans. Gill gives us a More accurate address adding an hour onto tomorrows journey.
The boys who have quietly been on the beach all day start singing and a car joins them with 'boom boom' speakers, we sneak H further up the esplanade. Gorgeous sunset! LTD.
